天麻提取物的皮肤屏障修复功效及安全性评价

Skin Barrier Repairing Efficacy and Safety Evaluation of Gastrodia elata Extract

摘要:

该研究采用热回流法制备天麻提取物（GEE），通过0.15 J中波紫外线（UVB）辐射人角质形成细胞（HaCaT）的细胞模型及人体保湿性功效评价，探究了GEE对受损屏障的修复作用。研究表明，当GEE样品质量浓度为200 μg/mL时，细胞相对生存活力为89.79%，此时对TNF-α和PGE2的抑制率分别为16.30%、24.51%，使ROS含量下降32.70%，FLG与AQP3 mRNA表达量分别上调65.79%、189.60%，且两种蛋白含量分别增加17.86%、16.73%。同时，由鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜实验可知，质量浓度小于等于7 mg/mL的GEE样品均无明显刺激；人体斑贴实验及保湿功效评价证明，含0.5%（质量分数）GEE的凝胶样品对皮肤无不良反应，相比空白组能提高14.28%皮肤水分含量，降低15.09%水分散失量。因此，GEE可通过降低ROS含量，抑制TNF-α和PGE2的分泌，上调AQP3、FLG的mRNA表达量并增加两种蛋白含量，以及提高皮肤保湿能力来发挥屏障修复功效，并且刺激性低安全性高，作为舒缓、修复类原料应用有良好市场前景。

Abstract:

Gastrodia elata extract (GEE) was prepared using the thermal reflux method and its ability to repair damaged skin barrier was investigated using a HaCaT cell model irradiated with 0.15 J medium-wave ultraviolet B, as well as its moisturizing efficacy was evaluated in humans. At a GEE concentration of 200 μg/mL, the relative cell survival viability was 89.79%, with the inhibition rates of tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) being 16.30% and 24.51%, respectively. The reactive oxygen species (ROS) content decreased by 32.70%, thereby upregulating the expression of fillagrin (FLG) and aquaporin 3 (AQP3) mRNA by 65.79% and 189.60%, with the protein contents both increasing by 17.86% and 16.73%, respectively. Moreover, the chick embryo chorionic allantoic membrane assay showed that the GEE samples with a concentration ≤7 mg/mL caused no considerable irritation. Furthermore, the human patch test and moisturizing efficacy evaluation indicated that the gel samples containing 0.5% (mass fraction) GEE caused no adverse reactions on human skin, increased the skin moisture content by 14.28%, and decreased moisture loss by 15.09% compared with that of the blank group. Therefore, GEE exerts barrier repair efficacy by reducing ROS content, inhibiting TNF-α and PGE2 secretion, upregulating AQP3 and FLG mRNA expression, increasing AQP3 and FLG protein content, and improving skin moisture. Owing to its low irritation and high safety, EGG shows promising potential as a soothing and rejuvenating ingredient.