海参内脏酶解物和体壁溶出物的护肤功效研究

Study on skin care efficacy of the enzymatic hydrolysates of viscera and the body wall extracts of sea cucumber Apostichopus japonicus

摘要:

本文以海参加工副产物为试验材料，将海参体壁酶解物作为对照，分别考察了海参内脏酶解物和体壁溶出物的保湿、防晒、抗氧化、美白及抗衰老功能，旨在对海参加工副产物的护肤功效进行评价。试验数据表明，内脏酶解物和体壁溶出物在保湿、防晒、抗氧化、抗衰老功能上优于体壁酶解物。其中内脏酶解物的吸湿保湿、抗衰老功能综合评价最佳：在81% RH的12 h吸湿率和保湿率分别为52.51%和95.04%，弹性蛋白酶抑制率达到26.34%；体壁溶出物在防晒、抗氧化功能上表现最佳：在UVC和UVB波段的紫外吸收率分别为94.52%和33.89%，DPPH自由基清除率的IC50为3.00 mg/mL，ABTS与FRAP法总抗氧化能力分别为4.48 mmol/g和5.91 mmol/g。美白功能方面，体壁溶出物及内脏酶解物对酪氨酸酶活性抑制率的IC50分别为49.43 mg/mL和40.00 mg/mL，美白功能低于体壁酶解物（IC50=16.82 mg/mL），但也能发挥很好的美白作用。在应用中，可以有效利用两种副产物在护肤功效上的作用优势，将二者联合应用或者作为体壁酶解物的补充应用在护肤品上，实现海参加工副产物的高效开发利用。

Abstract:

The by-products from processing of sea cucumber Apostichopus japonicus were taken as the objects of investigation in this study. The enzymatic hydrolysates from the body wall of sea cucumber were used as controls. The functions of moisturizing, sunscreen, anti-oxidation, whitening and anti-aging of the enzymatic hydrolysates of viscera and the body wall extracts were determined. The aim was to evaluate the effects of the by-products from processing of sea cucumber on skin care efficacy. The results showed that the enzymatic hydrolysates of viscera and the body wall extracts were better than the enzymatic hydrolysates of body wall in moisturizing, sunscreen, anti-oxidation and anti-aging functions. The comprehensive evaluation of hygroscopic moisturizing and anti-aging functions of the enzymatic hydrolysates of viscera showed the best effects: at 12 h of 81% RH, the moisture absorption and retention were 52.51% and 95.04%, and the elastase inhibition rate was 26.34%, respectively. The body wall extracts showed the best performance in sunscreen and anti-oxidation functions: in UVC and UVB wavelength ranges, the average UV absorbance rate were 94.52% and 33.89%, IC₅₀ of the DPPH free radical scavenging rate was 3.00 mg/mL, and the total antioxidant capacity were 4.48 mmol/g and 5.91 mmol/g by ABTS and FRAP method, respectively. In terms of whitening function, IC₅₀ of tyrosinase inhibition rate of the body wall extracts and the enzymatic hydrolysates of viscera were 49.43 mg/mL and 40.00 mg/mL, which were lower whitening function than that of the enzymatic hydrolysates of the body wall (IC₅₀=16.82 mg/mL). However, they could still play a good whitening effect. The combined application of two kinds of by-products by taking their advantages of the skin care efficacy function, or as the complementary products for the enzymatic hydrolysates of body wall in skin care could achieve the efficient development and utilization of the by-products from processing of sea cucumber.