[关键词]
[摘要]
通过响应面试验研究氯乙酸与裂褶多糖质量比,反应时间,反应温度对裂褶多糖的羧甲基化取代度的影响。采用体外重量法和体表仪器法,与常用化妆品保湿剂甘油和透明质酸比较,研究羧甲基裂褶多糖的保湿功效。响应面实验结果表明,氯乙酸与裂褶多糖质量比为2.38,反应温度为61.58 ℃,反应时间为2.82 h时有最大取代度0.54。体外保湿试验结果表明:在相对湿度为43%和81%条件下,吸湿性大小顺序为羧甲基裂褶多糖>甘油>透明质酸>裂褶多糖;在干燥硅胶环境下,保湿性大小为甘油>裂褶多糖>羧甲基裂褶多糖>透明质酸;在相对湿度为43%条件下,保湿性大小顺序为甘油>羧甲基裂褶多糖>透明质酸>裂褶多糖。体表保湿试验结果表明:羧甲基裂褶多糖保湿效果显著优于透明质酸,低于甘油,但是其锁水保湿性强于甘油和透明质酸。
[Key word]
[Abstract]
The effects of the mass ratio of chloroacetic acid to schizophyllan, reaction time, and reaction temperature on the degree of substitution in carboxymethyl schizophyllan were studied using response surface experiments. The in vitro weight method and body surface instrument method were used to study the moisturizing effects of carboxymethyl schizophyllan, which were then compared with the commonly used cosmetic moisturizers glycerol (Gl) and hyaluronic acid (HA). The response surface experiments showed that, under the optimum conditions ( themass ratio of chloroacetic acid to schizophyllan of 2.38, reaction temperature of 61.58 ℃, and reaction time of 2.82 h), the maximum degree of substitution (0.54) was obtained. In vitro test results showed that under relative humidity conditions of 43% and 81%, the moisture absorption rates of the samples were in the order of carboxymethyl schizophyllan > glycerol > hyaluronic acid > schizophyllan. Under dry environment conditions using silica gel, the moisture retention rates of the samples were in the order of glycerol > schizophyllan > carboxymethyl schizophyllan > hyaluronic acid. Under relative humidity of 43%, the moisture retention rates of the samples were in the order of glycerol > carboxymethyl schizophyllan > hyaluronic acid > schizophyllan. The skin moisturizing test showed that the moisturizing effect of carboxymethyl schizophyllan was significantly higher than that of hyaluronic acid and lower than that of glycerol, and the water-locking effect of carboxymethyl schizophyllan was stronger than those of glycerol and hyaluronic acid.
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[基金项目]
广东省科技计划项目(2013B090600129、2014A010107007、2013B090800033);广州市科技计划资助项目(201604016114)