海参内脏酶解物和体壁溶出物的护肤功效评价

Evaluation on the Skin-care Efficacy of the Viscera Enzymatic Hydrolysates and Body Wall Extracts of Sea Cucumber Apostichopus japonicus

摘要:

该研究以海参加工副产物为试验材料，将海参体壁酶解物作为对照，分别考察了海参内脏酶解物和体壁溶出物的保湿、防晒、抗氧化、美白及抗衰老功能，旨在对海参加工副产物的护肤功效进行评价。试验数据表明，内脏酶解物和体壁溶出物在保湿、防晒、抗氧化、抗衰老功能上优于体壁酶解物。其中内脏酶解物的吸湿保湿、抗衰老功能综合评价最佳：在81% RH的12 h吸湿率和保湿率分别为52.51%和95.04%，弹性蛋白酶抑制率达到26.34%；体壁溶出物在防晒、抗氧化功能上表现最佳：在UVC和UVB波段的紫外吸收率分别为94.52%和33.89%，DPPH自由基清除率的IC50为3.00 mg/mL，ABTS与FRAP法总抗氧化能力分别为4.48 mmol/g和5.91 mmol/g。美白功能方面，体壁溶出物及内脏酶解物对酪氨酸酶活性抑制率的IC50分别为49.43 mg/mL和40.00 mg/mL，美白功能低于体壁酶解物（IC50=16.82 mg/mL），但也能发挥很好的美白作用。在应用中，可以有效利用两种副产物在护肤功效上的作用优势，将二者联合应用或者作为体壁酶解物的补充应用在护肤品上，实现海参加工副产物的高效开发利用。

Abstract:

The by-products of sea cucumber Apostichopus japonicus processing were taken as the experimental materials in this study. The enzymatic hydrolysates from the body wall of sea cucumber were used as the controls. The moisturizing, sunscreen, anti-oxidation, whitening and anti-aging functions of the enzymatic hydrolysates of the viscera and the body wall extracts were examined, with the aim to evaluate the skin-care effects of the by-products from sea cucumber processing. The experimental data showed that the enzymatic hydrolysates of viscera and the body wall extracts were more potent than the enzymatic hydrolysates of body wall in moisturizing, sunscreen, anti-oxidation and anti-aging functions. The comprehensive evaluations revealed that the moisturizing and anti-aging functions of the viscera enzymatic hydrolysates were the best: at of 81% RH for 12 h, the moisture absorption and retention were 52.51% and 95.04%, respectively, and the elastase inhibition rate was 26.34%. The body wall extracts showed the greatest sunscreen and anti-oxidation effects: in UVC and UVB wavelength ranges, the average UV absorption rates were 94.52% and 33.89%, the IC50 value for the DPPH free radical was 3.00 mg/mL, and the total antioxidant capacities were 4.48 mmol/g and 5.91 mmol/g for ABTS and FRAP, respectively. In terms of the whitening function, the IC50 values of tyrosinase inhibition for the body wall extracts and the viscera enzymatic hydrolysates of were 49.43 mg/mL and 40.00 mg/mL, respectively, which were lower than that of the body wall enzymatic hydrolysates (IC50=16.82 mg/mL). However, they could still exert a significant whitening effect. In practice, the combined application of two kinds of by-products by taking advantage of their skin-care functions, or the use of body wall enzymatic hydrolysates as the complementary products in skin care could realize the highly effective development and utilization of the by-products from sea cucumber processing.